The journey of transforming a diamond from rough to polished begins with a thorough examination of the rough crystal. Each stone is carefully studied to assess its potential quality and determine the optimal cutting approach.
Depending on factors such as size and quality, a rough stone is meticulously mapped to identify the location of inclusions. Advanced technology now utilizes lasers that project multiple beams onto the stone, capturing far more details than ever before. This innovation allows for the precise charting of cavities and grooves that might have previously gone unnoticed. The external geometry of the rough diamond is then transformed into an accurate virtual 3D model, while inclusions are further mapped after creating small windows on the stone.
This phase is one of the most crucial steps in the entire manufacturing process. Here, our team carefully evaluates each rough diamond to determine its final shape and estimate its potential polished weight. Since every stone is unique, detailed analysis is essential to maximize yield while preserving as much weight as possible. In many cases, especially with larger crystals, we're able to cut multiple stones from a single rough!
Once the final shape is determined, the diamond is carefully marked with either ink or a laser to indicate where it will be sawn or cleaved—a precise process used to divide the stone into separate parts.
Diamonds contain natural growth planes, also known as cleavage planes, which influence how they are cut. The markings on a rough diamond often highlight these planes to determine whether it should be cleaved or sawn. If the markings align with or run parallel to the planes, the diamond is cleaved—traditionally done using a chisel and hammer. However, if the markings run perpendicular or against the planes, the diamond must be sawn. This process can be performed using mechanical saws with specialized blades or, more recently, advanced laser sawing technology.
After the sawing or cleaving process, the diamond undergoes a thorough review in the planning and marking stage to assess the accuracy and quality of the cuts. Once approved, it moves on to the next step: girdling or bruting.
During this stage, the diamond's facets are meticulously polished onto the stone using a mounted circular cast iron disc known as a scaife. The scaife's surface is coated with oil and diamond dust, creating the ideal environment for precise polishing. The diamond is secured in an adjustable dop at a specific angle and lowered onto the spinning plate from a tang. To avoid damaging the diamond, the angle must be carefully adjusted for each facet.
The first and perhaps most critical polishing stage is known as blocking. This step lays the foundation for the diamond's overall performance by establishing its basic symmetry. During blocking, the first 17 or 18 facets are carefully polished, depending on the intended final shape. These initial facets include the table, culet, and the first eight facets on both the crown and pavilion. At this stage, the diamond is referred to as a "single cut."
Achieving the same result as girdling, the outline of a fancy-shaped diamond is meticulously formed by hand in a process known as "shaping."
Girdling, also known as bruting, is the process of forming the diamond's girdle—the band around the widest part of the stone. To achieve this, the diamond is secured in a dop, which is then fixed onto the center of a high-speed lathe. Using another diamond set in a long bruting stick, the rough stone's corners are gradually rounded until the spinning diamond achieves a perfectly circular shape. Traditionally, this process involves grinding one diamond against another on a rotating wheel to create a smooth, uniform girdle.
Brillianteering is the process of polishing the final forty facets on a brilliant cut diamond after the blocker has completed the table and the initial "eights" on the crown and pavilion. A specialist known as a brillianteer meticulously polishes these remaining facets, enhancing the diamond's brilliance and symmetry. Throughout and after this process, the stone undergoes thorough inspection to ensure optimal quality and identify any potential improvements.
Polish refers to the degree of smoothness on each facet of a diamond, as evaluated by a gemologist. During the cutting and polishing process, microscopic surface imperfections can form when the polishing wheel drags tiny particles of dislodged diamond dust across the stone's surface. As the final step in the diamond manufacturing process, polishing is performed with meticulous care to achieve a flawless finish. Once complete, the diamond undergoes a final examination by our gemologists before being considered finished or sent for grading. Email Us
